Removing Old Drum Finish / Wrap
© JamminSam. All rights reserved.

(Continued from Getting Started.)

1. Remove all lugs, hardware, & eyelets. Eyelets can be taken out by prying their backsides with a plain-blade screwdriver (from inside the shell).  This method destroys the eyelet and sometimes the wood. The best way to remove eyelets, especially to reuse the original eyelet (which we recommend), is with a "round bastard" file (preferably 8").  File from the outside inward, filing off the backside (inner edge) of the eyelet.  It only takes about a minute to file through the eyelet's backside- only at the center rear edge.  Once filed, take a punch shaped object (or wooden dowel, or mechanic's socket- the same size as the hole), and carefully tap/work out the eyelet without damaging it or the shell.
   
   
   Alternative Method:   Some have used a drill and the right sized bit to drill out the back of the eyelet, then tapping the eyelet out with a mechanic's socket.
   Do not use pliers or a screwdriver to remove an eyelet if you are trying to save it (even if the eyelet is half way out) – these tools will damage the eyelet.  The size of the custom eyelets we include are for a 3/8" hole.
Important Note:   Eyelets are available in gold, black, and chrome, as well as ½" heavy-duty cast metal eyelets with a locking nut – at an additional charge.
2. Next, remove the old finish.  This can be accomplished by working a plain blade / flat-head screwdriver between the shell and the old finish and prying up to break the old finish.  After it is broken all the way across, try to peel the finish off the drum; sometimes the case with older USA made drums – especially "Rogers").  If the finish is very difficult to remove, or large pieces of wood are coming off with the material, you will need to use some heat to remove the material.
   
   The best way to remove a difficult finish is with a heat gun or a small propane torch (available at discount hardware stores for usually under $20).  Heat a small section of the material, then work it off with a putty knife.  Be very cautious when doing this because some of the older finishes are extremely flammable.  Some finishes will catch on fire immediately (especially the case with older USA made drums).  Have a very wet cloth handy so if it does burn, the beginning of a small fire can be put out quickly. 
   
   
   Please Use Extreme Caution!   ONLY do this outdoors, on concrete, and away from anything that will burn or explode.  Have a garden hose ready in case it does burn and the flames get out of control.  BE VERY CAREFUL!  Even a small drum can create a terrific flame.  (Note: We suggest no one under 18 years old use any type of propane torch without adult supervision.)
   
   If the material doesn't burn, it will become soft or even melt.  When the material is softened, use a putty knife to scrape/pry the heated material off the shell.  Remember, just heat a small section, pry off the old material with a putty knife, than repeat heating another section.  Usually, drums made in Asia (Japan, China, etc.) are only glued at the seam, and heat will not be needed to remove finishes from these drums.  It is best to try to remove the finish from the drum(s) first (U.S.A. made) to see if a heat gun is even needed.
   
   
   NOTE:   It is best to separate the finish from the shell with a putty knife instead of peeling back the finish; this method reduces the risk of wood coming up.
3. In this step, you prepare the shell for the new drum material.  If the old material was glued on, inspect the shell to determine if the old contact cement needs to be removed.  It may not be necessary to remove all the old glue/contact cement from the shell if the appearance of the glue is even and hard (liken to varnish on furniture).  Most of the time very little of the old contact cement will need to be removed, but if the appearance of the shell is rough due to glue (or a heavy buildup), most all of it will have to be removed.  And if the glue has a wet appearance or feel; it is best to remove all of it also.  Old glue can be removed with paint and glue remover products found in most hardware stores.
   
   
   Caution:   Use a proper type and proper fitting mask when working with these products – most are harmful to breathe.
   
   
   Note:   We suggest using water-base glue removing products – they are friendlier to your health.
   We believe it is best to sand on your shells as little as possible.  The more you sand, the more roundness is sanded off the shell – possibly creating areas where the material will not lay flat.  Never use an electric sander to remove old glue – use glue remover products to remove old glue.  After using glue removing products, clean any remaining residue with a piece of medium sandpaper in your hand.  Next, use a metal straightedge to first determine if any highs are present on the shell, usually around mounting holes.  If any are present, we suggest using the metal straightedge to scrape them down even with the rest of the shell.  Fill all unwanted holes before applying your new wrap.
   
   If the old material was taped on, little or no old glue, will need to be removed.  Fill all unwanted holes and use a metal straightedge (as described above) to determine if any highs are present on the shell (usually around the holes.)  Use the straightedge to scrape any highs down.
   
4. Take the piece of new drum material and wrap it around the prepared shell. Hold the material tight against the shell, and make sure the material is the right width (depth) for the shell between the bearing edges (usually about a 1/8" – ¼" of wood needs to be showing at each sound edge for most drums), and there is 1½ "– 2" overlap of the material at the seam. (Note: If this appears incorrect, call us before proceeding.) Inspect the material on the shell, and make sure that the material lays flat against it. Make sure that there are not any high points or any wood pieces on the shell that would keep the material from laying flat on the shell. If any are found, sand/remove those places. (Note: If sanding is necessary, do so without taking the roundness off the shell. Sometimes a metal straight edge is very effective in taking highs off the shell.)
   
   
   Note:
   
   Every piece of material (unless ordered differently) has tape on each end of the material. As already stated, any drum larger than 16" (head size) has two pieces of drum material to wrap it. Any drum that is 16" or less is done in one piece. Start with the smallest drum to recover, and do that drum "start to finish" before proceeding to the next drum.

This article continues with ... Applying the Wrap to the Shell

Thank you for choosing Jammin Sam’s drum wrap.  If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.  Click below (on the blue headings) to read about our "Guarantee/Warrantee" and other information. We welcome your interest in all our products on this site and hope that you will call us for a free catalog and samples of our drum material.  Thank you for spending the time to read this article.

[Home] [Site Map]

Please contact us with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 1982 thru 2007 Sam Barnard   Phoenix, Arizona


Web Site design, maintenance and Search engine optimization
Web Site Redesign 2002