Applying the Wrap to the Shell
© JamminSam. All rights reserved.

Continued from Removing Old Drum Finish / Wrap OR go to part 1 of this article.

5. Each piece of wrap (for 16" drums and smaller) comes with a white liner tape on one end (medium bond tape) and a yellow color (or glossy white) liner (hi-bond tape) on the other end. The medium bond tape end (flat white liner) is applied first; it is used to hold the material in place while you pull tight from the opposite side. To begin installation, place the wrap around the shell where you desire it to be without removing any liners. Remember to consider where you want the seam to be: over a mount, over two lugs, etc. Hold the material tight against the shell with one hand at the seam. Next, with the other hand, inspect the shell to see how the material lays against it. Use your fingernail to reveal any loose areas, and check the edges for any gaps. If you are happy with the way the wrap lays on the shell, and the seam is in the desired location, let the overlap side unroll while holding the under-lap side in place. With your other hand (or someone helping you), draw a line with a pencil against the under-lap edge the full length of the wrap. This mark will give you a guide where to place the medium bond tape edge of the material.
   
   Once you have drawn your line, peel back the clear peel-off protective top 3 or 4 inches from the medium bond tape side; you do not want the hi-bond tape adhered to the clear peel-off. (Note: Be sure not to scratch the exposed finish.) Next, remove the flat white liner (medium bond tape) from that same side of the material. (At this time, do not remove the yellow [or glossy white] colored liner.) Line up the edge of the material with the now exposed medium bond tape with your pencil mark and lightly press down on the shell.
   
   Now re-wrap the material and pull tight to see if the material lines up correctly. Do not try to pull the wrap to force it to evenly line up with the under-lap section, but pull the material tight to see where it naturally lines up- the material being tight against all areas of the shell. If the material is not approximately straight on the shell (more than 1/8" off), you will need to lift the medium bond tape and slightly readjust the wrap. If loose places are found (especially in the center of the drum), re-stretch the wrap until the desired results are obtained.
   
   
   Note:
   
   Glass glitter finishes contain real glass which make it somewhat brittle. If the medium bond side needs to be re-adjusted for any of our glass glitter finishes, do not pull up (or back) on the material – use a putty knife to gently separate it from the shell or it may crack.
   
   Important:
   
   Sometimes there are "air pockets" or loose places because the shell is out of square or out of round. If this is the case, there is nothing that can be done but position the wrap as best as possible; when done, those places will not be noticeable. Using the contact cement method does not correct this problem either. This is not a material or adhesive problem, it is a shell problem. 
   
   Also, sometimes there are "air pockets" or loose places, not because the shell is out of square, but because one has not put the first taped piece on straight. It can appear straight but not be straight. If the first piece is just half of a degree off (flat white taped liner end), you’ll have a loose place on one side of the shell. 
   
   Again, when pulling from the hi-bond side, do not try to meet the ends exact, but pull the material tight and see where the material ends up. If the wrap ends up 1/4" or more off center and tight against most all areas of the shell, you have not got the first piece on right. If that is the case, carefully pull up, and re-apply the first end (flat white liner side), and pull again from the hi-bond side to see if the material lays tight against the drum (little to no air pockets) and the ends closely meet each other.
   
   
6. Once the material lines up correctly on the shell (when pulled tight from the opposite end), and there are little to no loose areas, remove the hi-bond liner. After removing the hi-bond liner, place it back on the now exposed hi-bond tape, but off centered, so that about a half of the hi-bond tape is exposed (at the rear) and the other half is covered by the liner (at the seam). This will aid in avoiding premature bonding of the wrap to the tape while you are lining it up, and oils from your fingers decreasing the bond strength of the tape in the most important areas. While holding/pulling the wrap from that end (holding the wrap with your fingers behind the tape but centered on the material), pull the material tight against the shell and press the wrap down so that the hi-bond tape is holding the wrap on the drum- but only at the rear of the tape and mostly at the middle of the drum. Be sure you do not adhere too much of the tape to the material because you may not be able to remove it if desired without damaging the wrap (see note below.) This procedure should hold the material on the shell while you inspect the wrap on the shell. With your fingernail, tap the material all around the shell to reveal any loose areas. If there are loose areas, carefully lift the material up and pull the material tight again. Again, only adhere a small section of the tape (back edge) to the under-lap section. This allows easy removal if desired results are not obtained and keeps the exposed hi-bond tape fresh and unused (section near the seam that is still covered by the liner). You can separate the hi-bond tape several times and re-apply it if only a small amount of tape is used to hold the wrap to the shell and only at the rear edge (preferably centered). Also, it is best not to touch the hi-bond tape with your fingers, especially near the edge where the seam will be; the oils on your fingers will decrease the bond strength of the tape.
   
   
   Note:
   
   If too much of the hi-bond tape is adhered (prior to desired results), and it is too difficult to lift without damaging the wrap, use a putty knife to carefully separate/lift the seam.
   
   
   Note:
   
   Glass glitter finishes contain real glass which make it somewhat brittle. If the hi-bond side needs to be re-adjusted for any of our glass glitter finishes, do not pull up (or back) on the material – use a putty knife to gently separate it from the shell or it may crack. Be very careful, even the putty knife can crack the finish.
   
   
   If the material does not lay against the shell, as you believe it should, tap with your fingernail at center of the shell in the vicinity of the problem. If the material is tight at the center of shell but loose at the bearing edge (and the material is centered on the shell), then the shell is slightly out of square (or out of round), and there is nothing that can, or should be done. Most older drums (and some newer ones) are that way. When your recovery job is complete, a small gap will not be noticeable. Also, if one side of the wrap is loose, and the other side is tight, you probably have the medium bond side down at a slight angle. If this is the case, the wrap will have to be totally removed and the first edge slightly re-adjusted.
   
   
   WARNING:
   
   DO NOT FOLLOW THE REST OF THE PROCEDURES (FURTHER BONDING THE HI-BOND TAPE) UNTIL YOU HAVE INSPECTED THE SHELL AND ARE HAPPY WITH THE RESULTS.
   
   At this point, make sure that the clear-peel-off protective top is pulled back from the under lap side, about 3-4 inches.  Once the material is on the shell the best it can be, mix a small amount of 50% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and 50% water. Take a soft 100% cotton cloth, and use this mixture to clean the under lap area of the seam- the finish side of the wrap. Do not let it touch any exposed hi-bond tape.  Just use a little of the mixture, just enough to remove any residue where the tape will touch the material (especially where the edge of the seam will be)- do not rub hard. After the cleaning area is dry (usually taking about 1-2 minutes), remove the liner (covering half of the hi-bond tape) and wipe the entire seam down (with the exposed hi-bond tape) with a dry cloth.  (Note:  Do not touch the exposed hi-bond tape- especially near the edge- the oils on your fingers can weaken the bond.)  After the seam is sealed, fold back the clear peel-off protective top over the seam. This will protect the material until the hardware is replaced. The seam will reach it's full bond in about 3 days in a non-humid environment. (Note: The procedures in this paragraph of cleaning and clamping do not need to be done for Satin Flame finishes- they do not have a pull back resistance.  Also, they do not have a clear peel-off protective top.)
   
   Next, use a table (or hard floor) to further adhere the seam. Use your hands inside the shell, at the bottom, and, with a rocking motion, push the seam hard toward the hard surface. This will aid in the seam adhering even better. (Note: For Satin Flame finishes follow the same procedure, but be careful not to scratch those finishes-they have no protective top. For them, use newspaper between whatever hard surface you are using.)
   
   
   Note:
   
   If, after rubbing the hi-bond down, you are not happy with the results (you forget to remove the protective clear-peel-off top, loose places, the material laying crooked, etc.), you may carefully lift the seam and redo it (possible success may be reached with the aid of a putty knife to carefully work the seam apart). This might be successful if the seam has not been bonded for more than a few minutes. Many times though, to redo the seam at this point will destroy the finish. So get it right before you fully adhere the hi-bond tape to the finish. Again: inspect, inspect, inspect, before moving to the next step.
   
   
   IMPORTANT:
   
   When applying the "Metals", or any "Glass Glitters", you must use a small board and 2 C-clamps to clamp all seams for 3 days. These finishes are somewhat stiffer, thus needing a greater bond – clamping them increases the strength of the bond. Also, for any color, (except Satin Flames – they have no tendency to lift) we strongly recommend clamping the seams for at least one day, and up to 3 days, if possible. Clamping increases the strength of the bond. Center the board over the edge of the seam- the edge being most important for added strength.  (Note: It is best to use a small piece of wood between the C-clamp and the shell [inside] to protect the wood from the clamp.)
   
   Note:
   
   You must allow 3 days of curing time in a warm (typical room temperature), non-humid environment (no direct sunlight) for the tape to totally cure (never use a basement for a place to cure). (Note: The 3 days includes any clamping time.) Do not expose the material to any cold until the curing time is complete. If you are in a humid climate (or in rainy/cloudy conditions), use a typical hair dryer (nothing hotter) to heat the seam (after installation) about 2-3 times a day during the three day cure time. Heat enough to get the seam warm (20-30 seconds per seam), nothing hotter.  
   
   
7. If your kit includes a bass drum (or 18" - 20" toms), two pieces of material will be required to recover these drum(s) – a large piece and a small piece. The small piece will be labeled: "bass bottom". The smaller piece will be put on first (at the bottom for bass drums), then the larger piece last. First, take the small piece, and completely remove the clear peel-off protective top, but save the peel-off (if possible) to replace when done to protect finish until the hardware is replaced. The smaller piece is usually very easy to install, do one side at a time, following the above procedures (step 5).
   
   When installing the larger piece, it is very helpful to have a second person help – especially when pulling the material tight against the drum. Make sure equal amounts of overlap are present (on each seam) when adhering the larger piece to the smaller one. When installing the larger top piece, only peel off one side of the tape's yellow color liner (or glossy white). Line the piece up on the drum (it is best to have a second person help line-up and help hold the material against the drum).
   
   When the material is centered and lined up on the drum (with equal amounts of material at the 2 seams), with one finger, push the seam down (centered on the seam, back about an inch- near the rear of the now exposed tape) to hold the material in place. If you notice that the material is not straight on the drum, carefully lift it up (only a small area of tape should be holding the material in place – the rear section of the tape), straighten the wrap, and re-apply it. When the material looks straight on the drum, wipe that overlap completely down. (Note: use only a dry cloth, and do not wipe much against the now exposed underlap material – it may get scratched.) BE SURE YOU ARE NOT ADHERING THE TAPE TO THE CLEAR PEEL-OFF (it should have been already taken off). With one seam adhered (of the larger piece), use the same steps in method 5 above to pull the material tight against the shell and bond the other seam. Then follow the above steps using a hair dryer to help cure the seam (and any clamping – for certain colors).
   
8. When the above steps are completed, the holes can be immediately drilled out. When drilling, it is best to use a smooth block of wood (& best covered with tape) on the finish side (against the material) so the drill will not force the material up or break the seam. For drilling small drums, use a nail to locate the holes (make indentations from inside the shell, then make indentations from outside the shell), and then drill from the outside in.
   
   
   Note:
   
   If clamping the seam is recommended, the holes can be drilled out immediately after the seam is clamped – just not any holes that are covered by the clamps or wooden board.
9. Next, remove the clear peel-off protective top. (Note: Satin Flame finishes do not have a protective peel-off top.) It is also wise to remove just enough clear peel-off top as hardware is replaced.
   
   
   Note:
   
   When handling Satin Flame finishes, be very careful- they have no protective top & are more delicate. Handle them as little as possible & make sure nothing sharp or rough comes in contact with them- especially before the hardware is replaced. Remember, once a scratch is made, nothing can be done to remove it.
10. Next, replace the hardware. It is very important that you do not over-tighten the hardware. If you do, you will experience a bubble, a piece of hardware forcing the material down (too far) in one area creating pressure against the material to lift up in another. We suggest you just tighten the lugs firm (not tight) and the mounts just slightly tighter.
    
    
    Important Note:
    
    For best results, clean all hardware with chrome cleaner before mounting. If rust is present on any hardware, use steel wool before using the chrome cleaner.
    
    
    Now, if desired, replace the air hole eyelet(s) – air hole eyelets are included with your order if needed (3/8"). Drill out the size of hole that will make the eyelet snug when pushed in (3/8" hole for our standard eyelet). For best results, use our "eyelet installer tool" to flair the backside of the eyelet- see the instructions that come with the tool. If you choose not to use our tool, you can snip the end of the eyelet in about 6 places, then put the eyelet through the hole with the badge (if available). Next, bend the ends of the snipped eyelet over with needle nose pliers, then carefully beat down remainder with a hammer (eyelet facing down on a hard surface while hammering). Some professional restorers leave the air hole covered without drilling out the hole for the eyelet. Filling unwanted holes and painting the inside of the shells may be desired. Filling and/or painting shells should be done before adhering material to the shell.
    
    
    Note:
    
    For Satin Flame finishes, only use an eyelet that will fit the hole exactly. If you do not have an eyelet that size and want to use one, call us before starting the recovery process.
    
    
    Note:
    
    As already stated, take care in replacing the heads so that they do not catch on the material and pull it back off the shell.
    
    
    Note:
    
    If after time a seam does slightly lift, use "crazy glue jell" (not "crazy glue") accompanied with a board and two C-clamps- keep the seam clamped overnight.
    
    

    This article continues with ... Installing Inlay Strips

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    Thank you for choosing Jammin Sam’s drum wrap.  If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.  Click below (on the blue headings) to read about our "Guarantee/Warrantee" and other information. We welcome your interest in all our products on this site and hope that you will call us for a free catalog and samples of our drum material.  Thank you for spending the time to read this article.
    

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